"It’s simultaneously simple yet so rich: the rice is cooked in chicken water and fish sauce, with plenty of ginger, but chef de cuisine Grace Nguyen adds more chicken fat to it for good measure. Nice stroke. And plunked on top are slices of fried Chinese donut, spongy and almost eggy in texture, plus crisp fried shallots, and fragrant and bracing fresh shreds of rau ram, otherwise known as Vietnamese coriander. It’s the kind of dish you just want to curl up in, the snuggly sweater of breakfast." Read more...